Engine ticking but no check engine light

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Engine ticking but no check engine light

Damaged or worn main bearing noise is revealed by dull thuds or knocks which happen on every engine revolution. This noise is loudest when the engine is under heavy load. Excessive crankshaft end play is indicated by an intermittent rap or knock sharper than a worn main bearing. A damaged or worn connecting rod bearing will produce knock under all speeds. During the early stages of wear, connecting rod noise may be confused with piston slap or loose wrist pins.

Connecting rod knock noise increases in volume with engine speed and is at its loudest on deceleration. Engines designed with timing gears, or those equipped with a timing chain and sprockets, can produce different noise. The most common noise is a high frequency, light-knocking sound. This sound will generally be the same in intensity whether the engine is idling, operating at high speeds, or under load. Loose or improperly seated camshaft timing gears are usually loudest when warm.

They are speed sensitive only. They are not load sensitive. Cam gear noise will usually be evident at a warm idle in neutral and sounds much like a loose timing chain noise. Piston pin, piston, and connecting rod noise are hard to separate.

engine ticking but no check engine light

A loose piston pin, for example, causes a sharp double knock usually heard when the engine is idling, or during sudden acceleration then deceleration of the engine. A piston pin that has been improperly fitted will emit a light ticking noise that is more noticeable with no load on the engine.

Excessive piston-to-cylinder bore clearance will cause piston slap noise. The noise is similar to a metallic knock, as if the piston were "slapping" the cylinder wall during its stroke. As with most engine noise, understanding the cause of the noise will help you imagine what the noise sounds like.

An indication of piston slap is a decrease in noise as the engine warms up. When the engine is cold, the piston to bore clearance is greater and piston slap will be louder.

A loose or cracked flywheel will produce an irregular thud or click. If a thud is heard, the flywheel may be loose or damaged. This type of thud is loudest on deceleration. Loose torque converter-to-flywheel or flywheel-to-crankshaft bolts will sound similar to bearing knock.

This condition produces several raps during quick acceleration on a free running engine.Got car issues? Well, we've got the answers! Easily search thousands of entries to find exactly what you're looking for. Need advice on a dealing with a blown head gasket? Oil Leak? Cracked block or leaking radiator?

Be sure to leave a comment or question on anything that may interest you. You can also send an email to our pro for direct assistance! Engines can make all sorts of noises from humming to screeching, or clunking and clicking noises when turning.

The first thing to realize if you have a tick in your engine is that it is likely due to one of the reciprocating components rather than a rotating component. Things like bad bearings or worn out accessories will usually make whirring or whining noises as they rotate while reciprocating components like your pistons, rods, valves, and pushrods usually make ticks, clunks or ratcheting type sounds. The tick in your engine could be normal based on the design of your engine or could just be from normal wear from your engine running.

If you have a fuel injected car one of the ticks you could be hearing could be your injectors firing. Your fuel injectors are small electrical valves that open and close very quickly allowing a certain amount of fuel to be injected with the air your engine is drawing in. Some vehicles, like many Subarus, have injectors that you can actually hear opening and closing at idle. It should sound like a sharp pencil tapping on a desk and be very rhythmic.

Injectors ticking are not a problem and you can drive with confidence.

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Another tick could be from an exhaust manifold leak. As high-pressure exhaust escapes from a crack in the manifold or a leak in the gasket it will sound like ticking or clicking especially at idle or low engine RPMs. The most common cause of engine ticking is a noisy valve train.

Your valves have to open and close once for every 2 times your engine spins around. In an overhead cam engine, the camshaft lobes themselves depresses the valve while in single cam engines, the cam actuates push rods that open the valves by moving a lever called the rocker arm. Since your valves move very quickly and only move a short distance, the distance from the cam or pushrod to the valve needs to be very precise. These distances are controlled using shims or other adjustments and as normal wear occurs those distances can move out of tolerance.

This clearance can sometimes be removed by adjusting the rocker arms and sometimes requires installing new shims. If you have a pushrod style engine with solid lifters, may want to make sure the lifters are clean as there can be oil deposits built up on them which can also cause noise.

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This is the least expensive fix as you can typically change the motor oil in your car and the lifter tick will go away. Rod knock comes from a bad bearing in your connecting rod.

As the bearing wears out it will allow movement and that play will sound like tapping or clunking depending on how bad it is.

Knocking or Ticking Noise From Your Engine

If you hear a tick coming from your motor, check the oil level immediately.We recently bought a Audi A4 and everything seemed good and a while ago the engine began to make a ticking sound and it said it needs oil, but when we checked the oil it was full and a local mechanic said it heard like a piston but they are well oiled.

Anything we can do to fix the issue? The oil light is for oil pressure, not oil level. You may still have oil plowing through the engine, but not under pressure. This could be bad bearings, a bad oil pump or simply a clogged oil filter. It could also be a defective sending unit, but the ticking sound sort of confirms low oil pressure.

I would replace the oil filter first, even if it was recently replaced. Then have a mechanical gauge installed to measure the actual oil pressure. If it is confirmed to be low, then the engine will have to come out to inspect the bearings and the oil pump. Which is often 0W40 for european cars. These sensors sometimes are inaccurate.

Better to read the dipstick, if the engine even has one. They noted that the engine has no dipstick, and that after a few weeks, they got a dashboard warning that the oil level was low.

So, they added a qt, and the warning disappeared. A few weeks later, the same warning popped up, so they added another qt. In addition to determining the actual oil pressure with an external gauge, I would suggest that the OP have a valve cover removed in order to see if there is an excessive amount of oil sludge.

If the sludge that I suspect is present is actually found, then the OP needs to decide whether to spend the money necessary to partially disassemble the engine and clean out that damaging stuff from an engine that may have already sustained significant damage from the sludge.

Uh Oh… db started the thinking off properly and keith is correct about the oil light pertaining to pressure, not volume. The 1. Ive seen a lot of 1. The story is always the same… Oil change regimen is not up to standard…and more importantly by far…they dont use full synthetic motor oil. If properly maintained they are rock solid…but factor in abuse and its all over…and rather quickly. These engines do not tolerate abuse for long.Eddie spent 35 years in the automotive business with Honda.

Some engines have a normal ticking noise caused by electrical components like injectors, relays, and solenoids, and also the engine itself makes some noise turning thousands of RPM's revolutions per minutebut for the most part, engines should generally have only a very soft ticking noise with no knocking noise. If your engine develops a knocking noise while driving, usually it's quickly followed by a red or amber warning light on the dash notifying the driver there is a problem.

If the light is amber, I recommend taking it easy until you reach a garage or service station, amber means CAUTION and the noise and light should be checked very soon by a reputable mechanic not your cousin, unless they have a mechanical background. If your engine develops a ticking or knocking noise in a short period, the first thing you should do is shut off the engine and check the oil level.

You'll need to find the engine oil dipstick and see if you need to add oil or if the oil level is up to the full line. If you cannot find the dipstick, ask for help; don't chance driving without checking the oil level first. There are several reasons the oil level in your engine may be low.

The most common cause is an oil leak. If you suspect you have an oil leak, check the ground where you usually park your car: most often you will find several drips or small puddles of oil on the ground or garage floor.

If you cannot see any signs of leaks on the ground or garage floor, try placing a large piece of cardboard under the engine overnight and check for leaks in the morning.

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This method usually verifies an oil leak clearly without any questions. I created this video below of some typical engine ticking and knocking noises. Deeper knocking noises are from below where the crankshaft is located. Worn crankshaft and connecting rod bearings are the usual cause of lower-pitched, deep knocking noises but are not the only parts that can cause these types of noises.

I had a vehicle in the shop that had a blown timing belt tensioner see aboveand this was a very heavy deep noise, so you just never know what is making the noise until you have a knowledgeable mechanic check it out.

Below the video are some pictures of a normal camshaft and another one that is worn causing some noise. If you don't see any visible external engine oil leaks, it's possible you are leaking oil internally.

There are lots of possible sources of internal engine oil leaks like piston rings, valve guide seals, gaskets, and o-rings. If your engine is burning oil past the piston rings or valve guide seals, the usual sign is blue smoke exiting the exhaust pipe, some when the engine is idling and more when the engine is accelerating. There is another type of internal engine oil leak called a head gasket leak.

In some cases, the head gasket can leak engine oil into a cylinder, again causing blue smoke out the exhaust; it can also leak coolant into a cylinder and cause thick white smoke out the exhaust. One other possibility is coolant and oil mixed together internally causing a milky mess either in the oil pan or radiator.

This type of leak is very noticeable: just pull the oil dipstick, or look in the coolant overflow tank, and if you see any contamination that looks like chocolate milk, you have found your problem. If your oil is dark brown or amber, and your coolant shows no signs of oil mixing, but you still think you may have a possible internal engine oil leak, top off the oil to the full line on the dipstick, then check your oil level every miles and document your findings. Note: If the oil level is low when checking it after miles, top it off again and recheck it in another miles, this will give you an idea of how much oil you're losing or burning.

Once an engine develops a noise like this, there is no easy fix. Typically, you'll need to dig deep into the engine to either fix the noise by replacing internal engine parts camshaft or crankshaft or replacing the complete engine. Once an engine runs low on oil to the point where the engine makes noise, it's usually too late; the damage is done.

Here is one tip of advice. If you never do any service to your vehicle, the one maintenance item you should always do is change your oil. The oil is the blood of your engine, and the engine is the heart of your car, just like the human body, take care of your heart, and the blood will keep pumping. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

There's a knocking noise coming from the engine area of my vehicle, but it only knocks when accelerated. Also, white smoke comes from the exhaust, but it's not overheating at all. After driving the blazer around the block a few times, the smoke isn't as bad.

engine ticking but no check engine light

Any ideas as to what could be the problem? The knocking on acceleration is most likely a worn crankshaft bearing, and the smoke is probably worn piston rings or valve guide seals. Valve guide seals will usually cause smoke on start up and then will disappear after driving for a few minutes; worn piston rings will smoke all the time.When the "check engine" light turns on in your car, you might be conflicted about what to do.

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After all, engine problems are nothing to ignore. However, this light doesn't always mean there's a problem with the engine itself.

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That can make it hard to decide whether your car needs to go to the shop. Your engine might produce a knocking noise for several reasons. Knocking or tapping from a cold start may indicate that a car hasn't been properly maintained. It also may indicate internal mechanical issues such as a broken ring, a broken piston, a filing rod bearing or wrist pin, or a blown head gasket.

These knocks often sound metallic and increase as the engine speed increases. They may increase as the engine load rises as well. Engines can knock when the engine timing is wrong, because the cooling system is not working correctly or because the fuel mixture is wrong. The sound may be a true knock--a hollow sound--or a rattling noise. Engines with cooling-system issues or uneven combustion may develop a pinging sound.

No matter what it sounds like, engine knock indicates a real problem. You should never ignore a loud engine. The "check engine" light may be the most misunderstood light on the dashboard. It's capable of sensing problems with the engine, but it can't tell you where they come from.

Your "check engine" light could turn on for something as small as a loose gas cap, to something as big as an engine that's misfiring. Although that light doesn't usually mean you'll need a tow, it does serve as a heads-up, letting you know that something is definitely wrong. Owners of knocking cars should never ignore their "check engine" lights. Take a little time and check the basics--reseat the gas cap, check coolant levels and allow the car to "rest" before starting it again.

Reduce speed and load, as well. If your car wasn't built to tow, you may see the "check engine" light. If these steps don't correct the problem, there could be something seriously wrong. Take your car to a mechanic you trust as soon as you can. The repairs may seem expensive now, but you'll save money in the long run.

A car with a poorly running engine is more polluting and less fuel efficient. Engine knock could also indicate a problem that won't get any better. Your mechanic can help you find the problem and fix it.Dan Ferrell writes about do-it-yourself car maintenance and repair. He has certifications in automation and control technology.

The check engine light is part of your car's on-board diagnostic OBD system. This system is operated by the electronic control module ECMwhich is your car's computer. In modern vehicles, the ECM controls almost every major electrical or electronic system and continually scans for out-of-range operating parameters as reported by numerous sensors and actuators.

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For example, a sensor or actuator may detect a misfire, poor fuel injection, unusual output voltage to the secondary ignition system, erratic operation of the fuel pump, or any other condition that might affect engine performance or emissions. Your car's computer will first try to correct the problem or wait a number of cycles. When the computer can't correct the problem, and it doesn't correct itself, the OBD system will store a diagnostic trouble code DTC in memory.

This triggers the check engine light.

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Since the computer stores a specific trouble code identifying the particular malfunction, it is a way to help car technicians and owners determine the nature of a problem and potential system or component involved. With the right tools, it also helps you troubleshoot your vehicle whenever the engine light illuminates.

In this guide, you'll find out what type of problems turn on the check engine light, what it means when it flashes, how you can retrieve the trouble codes stored in your car's computer, and how to go about deciphering those codes to help you fix your vehicle.

Sincemotor vehicles have been equipped with the OBD-II second generation diagnostic system, an enhanced and standardized version of the previous generation. The OBD system—as it relates to the check engine light—monitors and controls the amount of emissions produced during the operation of your car by constantly checking and correcting input values to the appropriate systems with the help of sensors and actuators, including:. Whenever the computer detects an abnormal condition through one of these, it sets a DTC in memory and lets you know by illuminating the light.

When a potential emissions-related problem warrants your attention, you'll see the light illuminate in one of three different patterns. Sometimes, the problem comes and goes. This is referred to as an intermittent or soft failure and can cause the light to flash, stop flashing, and then start again.

The problem appears only when certain conditions appear. For example, the loose connector or broken wire that keeps connecting and disconnecting when the vehicle travels over bumps or irregularities on the road, causing the light to turn on and off for periods at a time.

Whenever a problem causes the light to come on and stay illuminated, a hard failure is present. A dirty or failed mass air flow MAF sensor, for instance, will remain out of its normal operating parameters and cause the check engine light to remain on until you clean or replace the sensor.

engine ticking but no check engine light

When the check engine light flashes continuously, it means you have a critical problem that will cause serious damage if neglected. Usually, this originates in a misfire that allows fuel to pass into the exhaust manifold and down to the catalytic converter where high temperatures ignite the fuel.

Eventually, this condition will damage the exhaust system or catalytic converter. You need to fix the problem soon before a minor repair turns into a major and expensive one. When the computer detects an abnormal condition, it will store a DTC in memory and turn on the check engine light to let you know of the situation. Let's say, for example, that the oxygen sensor in the exhaust system detects too much oxygen in the exhaust stream and sends this information to the computer.

The computer tries to rectify by injecting more fuel into the engine.Automotive Forums. We purchased a FOrd Taurus in April. It has miles on it as of today. A couple of months ago the check engine light went on, took it to Autozone, they hooked the computer up to it and the EGR valve came up. We replaced it the next daylight came back on, went back to AUtozone, the kid cleared the computer I"m not suppose to tell anyone he did it.

THe light came on the next day. Thought it was a defective EGR valve, bought a new one, replaced it, light came back on. Again, thinking it was a defective one, replaced it, took cable off battery for 3 days, light came back on. Autozone keeps saying it's the EGR valve popping up on their computer, but when we replace it, the light comes on the next day.

Also just recently we have a ticking noise coming from the drivers side of the engine, towards the front window area. There are no belts there, it seems its from the oil dip stick area, can't really pin point it. WIth the hood open there is a very distinct ticking noise. The ticking doesn't happen all the time, but I want to fix it before something major happens. There are two other sensors that may be causing yuour problem. May be more, but these are two that I would be checking into.

As far as the ticking noise, hmmm. Might want to check for a bad plug wire where the spark is jumping and causing the tick. Could be a lot of things but without being there it is difficult to diagnose. Thanks so much for the quick response! Do you think these sensors have anything to do with that 'ticking' noise on the lower part of the engine? Or is that a different coneren.

Thanks again! Again, Thanks.

Q: Engine tick and check engine light.

I'll have my husband check into these things you suggested. I truly appreciate your knowledge and time!! You might have a bad O-2 sensor. My Taurus has the same problem.


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